It feels odd sitting here after a week of the most torrential rain and a named storm passing through, that I should be typing about on of the most glorious walks I’ve ever had in January. The sun was warm, the skies blue and the area was picture perfect. We’d chosen a bit of a drive down into Cornwall to walk the coastal path from Hollywell Bay to Perranporth, and we’d picked the right area to go to. The forecast over Devon was cloud with some rain, the further west you went however, the sun was out, so west we went. We’d previously walked from Crantock to Holywell back in November 2023 (here), which is much further back than I thought, so we were due a visit to pick off some more. We parked in the excellent National Trust car park and set off for Penhale Point, immediately the views across Holywell Bay opened up and out to the Gull Rocks. Next we walked past the smashed up Penhale Camp, left by the MOD, but with countless warning signs everywhere to keep out. Its a shame they don’t clear it up and let it return back to the wild as it looks a state currently. Thankfully it wasn’t long before we dropped over a brow to see Perran Sands stretching out infront of us, all 2 miles of it. We initially looked to walk through the dunes on the edge of the beach, but the path deteriorated and we preferred the open flat sands instead. It was glorious walking across here, we stopped about half way for lunch, tucking ourselves on the edge of the dunes to enjoy the views as well. Next we headed into Perranporth and started a short climb up through the golf course to the caravan park. It was pretty much closed so it was an easy walk along the lanes through the park, where we soon saw a large cross on a dune, marking the St Piran’s Oratory. This place is said to be built by St Piran, Cornwall’s patron saint, after his exile from Ireland. Believed to be built around 800AD but buried in the sands 1830’s, in 1910 a concrete shell was built around it to protect it but again it got buried by the sands until 2014 when they dug it out again. In winter the area can be flooded with a large pond around the Oratory. Near to the Oratory is another church and St Piran’s cross, this church was built after the Oratory was lost to the sands, but the cross is older, possibly the oldest in Cornwall. It was mentioned in the 10th century and is likely to be older possibly the same age as the Oratory.

At this point we started to head in the wrong direction with marked paths on the map not in existence on the ground, and signs everywhere saying no entry. We walked back to the Oratory and saw a path heading back towards Holywell, a dog walker was coming the opposite way, this would do us and we walked the track to the far end of the beach, near the entrance to Penhale Camp. As we got there, the sun looked lovely shining on the sea and there was half a chance that there might be a sunset. We walked back to Penhale Point and sat for a bit to see if it materialised, unfortunately the cloud had gathered and were got a bit of orange but not the sunset. We headed back into Holywell and the car, very happy with our outing. I was also happy with the drive to get there, its about 75mins and we have a chance to maybe do the next section from Perranporth down to St Agnes.

Start – Holywell Bay parking

Route – South West Coastal Path – Penhale Point – Ligger Point – Perran Sands – Perranporth – Perran Sands Campsite – St Piran’s Oratory – St Piran’s Church – Penhale Point – Holywell Bay

Distance – 10 miles   Start time – 11:15am  Time taken – 5hrs 30mins  Highest Point – Not much really

Weather – Sunshine and cloud, felt like spring in January