Whin Rigg, Scafell and Slight Side

Having summited the highest Wainwright and mountain in England two days earlier, we figured that we would also summit the second highest. This was a walk made to shorten the number of walks I have left, by one at least, and as a result I conjured up the longest walk I’ve done on any of my Wainwright walks. 14 miles setting out from an absolute peach of a valley and from a car park that would rarely ever fill up. As it was we arrived just before 10am and only one other car was parked up and they were still putting their boots on. We started out through the forest, climbing on a mix of forest tracks and paths between the trees, before long we popped out on to Irton Fell to see cloudy views and clouds swirling around Whin Rigg and the Wasdale fells. The forecast was for the cloud to clear and blue skies to come out during the afternoon, the MWIS forecast was spot on and as we climbed so did the cloud. This walk would include lots of places and views that I’ve always wanted to see. Like looking down the Wasdale Screes and across Wastwater to Yewbarrow, Burnmoor Tarn and the views into Eskdale from Scafell and Slight Side. So much to see but many miles to get there, and with hardly anyone else around, a complete contrast to our walk up The Pike, this was to be a special outing. We really enjoyed walking across the top of Whin Rigg and Illgill Head, and even had a first lunch at the tarns between the two. However on descending to the Maiden Castle cairn we noticed it was 2.30pm already and we were about to start a 660metre climb to Scafell, we quickly got to Hard Rigg following what seemed to be a good path, it turned towards Green How and became a little feint but still good to follow, then we hit boggy, mossy ground, which when heading uphill and in a warm sun is sapping on the energy. In the end we reached the path which comes up over Green How from Wasdale Head, and with it, firmer ground.

We finally hit the summit of Scafell at 4.50pm and with it views for miles, we sat for a while eating lunch number two and soaked up the sunshine and the staggering scenery. Eventually we dragged ourselves away and headed down to Slight Side, the sun had started to hit a slight golden stage and the light looking down into Eskdale was stunning, by this point it was 6.15pm and we still had just over 5 miles to walk back! We decided we would head over to cross the two gills as high up them as possible. We had seen on our ascent of Scafell that were was a lot of water in Hardrigg Gill and also Broad Tongue seemed to have a lot of standing water and looked boggy. We made the right call and easily hopped the gills before dropping to Burnmoor Tarn, it was a bit squidgy around the tarn but we made swift progress around to Burnmoor Lodge. Then we heard a roar in the Wasdale valley, I shouted “planes”, and as I grabbed my camera we saw two banking Eurofighter Typhoon turning hard at the end of Illgill Head before screaming over the tarn and us and heading down the Western Lakes coast. We were still giddy as we dropped into Miterdale to see two stunning waterfalls falling into the valley. It was 7.45pm at this point and we still had 3 miles to walk to the car, Miterdale is a long way, thankfully the light is good until 9pm in the middle of May and we made quick progress alongside the river. That is apart from me slipping twice on greasy ground. It didn’t spoil what was a truly stunning day and one of my best days walking anywhere. I’m just grateful to have shared it with Linda and we got to see clear summit views from the top of Scafell which is a memory that will live long. The crowning part was that Scafell was number 200 of my Wainwrights, a perfect way to hit that milestone. Apologies for the number of photos, but there is just so much to see.

Start – Miterdale parking

Route – Miterdale Forest – Irton Fell – Whin Rigg – Illgill Head – Hard Rigg – Green How – Scafell – Slight Side – Hardrigg Gill – Burnmoor Tarn and Lodge – Miterdale

Distance – 14 miles    Start time – 10am   Time taken – 10hrs 30mins Highest Point – Scafell 964 metres

Weather – Cloud to start but lifting to blue skies, sun and glorious conditions

© Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey FL 2023 SF
The parking spot at Miterdale is a grassy pull off area by a forest track and this bridge. Miterdale is in the direction of the photo, we are heading up to the left here
Great Bank dominates this end of Miterdale
As we popped out of the forest and through the wall we see views back towards the coast and Irton Pike
Whin Rigg was in and out of the clouds as was Wasdale and the fells to the left
Greathall Gill is an ascent to Whin Rigg if you are coming up from Wasdale, for us its a lovely window down to Wasdale and across to Buckbarrow
Herdy in full coat still
The cloud was slowly rising at times giving some lovely views out towards the sea
Whin Rigg summit and Buckbarrow and Middle Fell are clear of the cloud, as is Seatallan just (has a shadow over the summit)
Turning further right, the head of Wasdale still appears to be cloaked in cloud, with Yewbarrow swallowed up, although there is hope with both Haycock and Red Pike clear, so its still improving and the sun is shining
The path sticks pretty close to the edge if you see fit or there’s one a bit further back, I chose a bit of both as the views down to Wastwater were spectacular
Plus you get the really steep views down the rocky clefts as well
We were heading down to the tarn for lunch one when this view to Yewbarrow opened up. These two fells have some of the best vistas to the high Wasdale fells that there is. Illgill Head is up there on the right
Lunch spot one by the tarns with views to Harter Fell and Green Crag beyond
More views down the Wasdale Screes as we walk to Illgill Head
Looking back to Whin Rigg
Cloud drops as we hit Illgill Head
Linda at Illgill Head with Yewbarrow just trying to clear again
About to descend Illgill Head and blue skies are overhead and Scafell is just hanging on to the last of the thicker cloud, the timing might be good here
Down into Wasdale Head with Kirk Fell rising up
Burnmoor Tarn, backed by Harter Fell and Green Crag
We are on the path by Hardrigg Gill looking back to Burnmoor Tarn and Illgill Head on the right, Raven Crag is left
As we were walking through the boggy horrible sections towards Green How a helicopter passed over head, circuling many times around Mosedale it eventually set down quickly and then took off again. I read later that a walker was having breathing difficulties when walking the Black Sail Pass and was being helped back down that long path. Maybe they dropped off equipment and Mountain Rescue to get the man back down.
Looking into Mosedale, the helicopter was circling around Mosedale and in front of Yewbarrow before landing briefly and then off and away
Selfie as we climbed Scafell, we struggled across to Green How, with our feet going ankle deep at least twice each, the boggy ground wasn’t expected here so we were happy when we reached the stony path up from Green How
Glorious views into Mosedale as we climb the main path. Pillar at the head of Mosedale and Kirk Fell to the right would be on our itinerary in 2 days from this walk
The path gets very rough underfoot and starts to zigzag a bit to prevent it becoming a scree shute. But the chance to stop means you get the stunning views down to Wastwater and Illgill Head/Whin Rigg to the left and Middle Fell over on the right with Seatallan
Summit selfie, we’d just spoken to our first person of the day and only our 5th person that we’d seen, it was beautiful, peaceful and the views spellbinding
Symonds Knott is just over there with Great Gable behind and left. Scafell Pike on the right and looking fairly empty at 5pm on a Tuesday!! At the back over Symonds Knott is Skiddaw and Blencathra
Bit further left, Symonds Knott is on the right, then Great Gable, then Kirk Fell with Grasmoor above and behind it, and High Stile with Pillar furthest left
Scafell summit looking into Mosedale, the light was starting to soften a little and cast some lovely shadows from the fells and onto the fells from the odd cloud
Burnmoor Tarn and away back left is Black Combe
Clouds casting a shadow as I look to Bowfell and Crinkle Crags across the upper parts of Eskdale. To celebrate number 200 Wainwright for me we had lunch number 2 on the summit (or is it first tea considering it was 5pm)
Linda is making good progress on the way to Slight Side
Reaching Slight Side I look back up at Scafell summit with Scafell Pike peeking up on the right
Slight Side looking down to Burnmoor Tarn and Illgill Head. The evening sun starting to make the photos a little hazy in places. It was due to the sun that we could see the very boggy ground of Quagrigg Moss and Broad Tongue. So we decided to head off to the right of this photo and contour around to and across Hardrigg Gill
First though we enjoyed the summit of Slight Side. Harter Fell in the centre here and the Coniston Fells back left
This was the view that I wanted to see though, into the upper parts of Eskdale, backed by from left to right Scafell Pike, Ill Crag and Esk Pike. The River Esk is wriggling below
And a bit further right to include my favourite fell, Bowfell and the edge of Crinkle Crags
Zoomed out to get it all in
As mentioned we contoured across to a tributary of Hardrigg Gill and crossed easily quite high up. We then followed the gill down on a feint path before crossing the actual Hardrigg Gill as it joins the tributary. There was a fair amount of water in the gills, and the waterfalls lower down were flowing strongly.
Scafell has a brief cap of cloud as I turn to look back from the edges of Burnmoor Tarn. Hardrigg Gill is centre and the waterfall can be seen as can the one from Quagrigg Moss on the far right. The bank on the left is Hard Rigg
The outflow from Burnmoor Tarn, this outflow heading right actually goes to Boot along Whillan Beck and not down Miterdale as would be expected in these parts. There is actually a slight rise before you drop sharply into Miterdale, stopping the tarn from going that way. The light now was superb for photos as it was 7.30pm
This is about as good a photo as I could get of the two Eurofighters, the one above us and the other banking hard (the black dot on the white cloud). The noise was superb and we both gawped like kids in awe.
Now I wasn’t expecting this, the drop into Miterdale was one thing and then there was the two waterfalls crashing over the edge to form the River Mite
The River Mite and Miterdale. Illgill Head rising up steeply to the right
The head of Miterdale, both waterfalls are on the left. Scafell at the back has some wispy cloud around its summit
I took a few photos of the valley but I think I’ve used my quota on this walk, so I will give you one last one from the bridge by the car at 8.35pm, with Scafell in the distance. It had taken us an hour to do the 3 miles from Burnmoor Tarn to here, and I’m glad it took us so long to get the summit at Scafell, to have those views to ourselves. The walk has taken me to 201 Wainwrights and is comfortably right up there as one of the best I have done, and I reckon Scafell may well go up there as one of my favourite fells. In this weather there can’t be many better summits.

12 thoughts on “Whin Rigg, Scafell and Slight Side

  1. Epic walk and post! Great photos, fully justified in including them all. Love Miterdale, one of the Lakes quietest corners. Having walked down it on a sprained ankle, I can attest to it being a long way! I think I’ve done Scafell from every other possible direction, but never from Miterdale: might have to nick this route. (While the days are long!)

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    • Wha House farm route is the simplest way in but still quite long. Coming in from Brackenclose car park means a tricky traverse across or back from Slight Side, no real path across there as we found and once across Hardrigg Gill I would descend to a point around NY183057 to pick up the main path back to Wasdale

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    • Broad Stand isn’t a place for the feint hearted, and thankfully there was no need for us to head that way. Have to say Scafell is a brilliant summit and so much quieter than the Pike a short distance away

      Liked by 1 person

  2. Superb day! Those photos in the late afternoon light from Scafell are wonderful. That rocky hollow at the top of Miterdale is an arresting sight isn’t it. Also noted that parking area as a possible overnight van stop if it’s flat enough

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    • I’d say flat enough for a van its a fairly big spot and I’d say ideal for an overnight. Loved that area at the top of Miterdale was unexpected, nothing on the map really to suggest waterfalls

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