Cnicht

So this was to be our summer holiday, not this time to the Lakes, but Snowdonia (Eryri) alongside a couple of special events. My cousin was getting married in Llangollen, so we booked a Premier Inn in Oswestry and stayed a couple of nights there. Then we had a week in Penmachno, and looked for plenty of good walks in Snowdonia to keep us all entertained. Finally we had my mum and dad’s 50th wedding anniversary in Bolton, so a fair bit of travelling involved all in those 10 days. To make that travelling even more complicated, my eldest had his GSCE results near the end of our week in Penmachno, so that involved dropping him back to a half way point near Bristol, for his mum to take him back. It meant we only did 3 proper walks, plus a cracking day out around Bangor for our week in Eryri. It was a fantastic time away though, with lots of family time mixed in with time for the 4 of us to enjoy the Welsh landscapes, tackling some of the mountains that I’ve had my eye on for a while now. The first of these was Cnicht, the Welsh Matterhorn, with what looked to be a fairly simple walk on our first full day in the National Park. However Storm Betty had other ideas, I watched the weather intently, seeing the storm pass through overnight and the winds drop significantly through the morning and into the afternoon. Being a short walk, I figured we could start in the afternoon and be up and down before tea, easily. This was true, however Storm Betty hung around longer than expected, and infact the winds didn’t really clear for most of the week. As we climbed the winds got stronger on Cnicht, we saw others coming back down who where saying they couldn’t reach the summit and the final scramble was impossible. We made the plateau, just under the final 20 metres pull up to the top, and felt the full force of the 50mph winds still pummeling the summit. With the cloud being down it meant we couldn’t see the scramble route clearly, nor know how far we had left for certain, all we knew was the drops either side were very steep, and Cnicht being a conical shape, meant getting to the summit would have been foolish. Others were sat at the same point, all looking at a dark misty shape which was the summit. One guy had attempted to clamber up, he said he got to a point around the top and wedged himself in between two upright rocks, took a photo and slid back down. Not worth the risk. It is normally a brilliant mountain, and probably very simple to get up the final part in a breeze, for me I was happy to tick this one off and look forward to two other classic Snowdonia mountains.

Start – Croesor

Route – Snowdonia Slate Trail – Cambrian Way – Cnicht – Cambrian Way – Snowdonia Slate Trail – Creosor

Distance – 3 1/2 miles    Start time – 1pm   Time taken – 2hrs 45 mins Highest Point – Cnicht 689 metres

Weather – Cloudy with the cloud down on summits, very windy.

© Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey FL 2023 SF
Firstly a picture from my cousins wedding, we scrub up well don’t we?
This is from the day after my cousin’s wedding. Having driven through the start of Storm Betty with heavy rain we arrived in Penmachno, unfortunately the pub was shut until 4pm and we couldn’t get in the house until 3pm, so we had a mooch around the church.
St Tudclud church in Penmachno
Linda reading about the Penmachno stones, from the late 5th and early 6th century!! These are memorial stones and have huge historical importance, they are inscribed with Latin and would have been grave covers. A web search brings up the below:

 ‘Here lies Carausius in this heap of stones.’ Also inscribed on this stone are the Greek letters “X” and “P” the first two letters of the word Christ (Christos), which here form a four-rayed cross known as a Chi-Rho monagram. Legend tells us that Carausius, also known as Crair or Caron, was the hero of the Britons during the 3rd century AD. He proclaimed ‘himself’ King and Emperor of the Celtic west, and stood up to the might of the Roman army who, in turn, regarded him as ‘something of an annoyance.’

On to the walk now, and this is the car park in Croesor, the cafe was just opening and the car park filling up as we arrived at 1pm
We’d booted up quickly, so quickly that I hadn’t checked the GPS, and we had started off on the wrong path here. I noticed the error and we did an about turn and headed further up the road and then the track through the wood
Back on the right track now, the two knobbly hills over there are around Porthmadog. Possibly Moel-y-Gest I think.
Moel Hebog on the left and Moel Yr Ogof to the right, cloud was lowering at this point with a strong wind
Cnicht up to the right as we follow the path up, the route up isn’t long, no more than a mile and a half to the summit. Yr Arddu is rising to the left here.
The estuary around Porthmadog is more in view now as we head up Cnicht
The boys are ahead of us, as they were for most of the walks in Snowdonia, Cnicht is hidden in cloud ahead. We don coats to protect from the strengthening winds
Stunning views back down the ridge to Croesor and on to Porthmadog estuary. The drops to the left are starting to take hold now and some of the path does skirt these drops, which in the strong wind made for some difficult walking
On the map this is known as Canolfan Blaencwm. Basically up to the right here is Moelwyn Mawr which at 770 metres must have been fun in the wind, but possibly easier than our attempt at Cnicht
Those difficult paths I mentioned, the ground was greasy after the rain and the wind was pounding up the valley, two of the group back there had told us not to attempt the summit.
The cairn below the summit and as far as we could go, we walked to the dip to the summit climb but the wind was horrendous. Not for us today, but for me its a tick in the box
From Google maps this is the last 20-30 metre ascent that we should have seen, there is a slight path up to the right which can be seen before it hits the scramble over the rocks, easy on a day like this photo, but not in 50 mph winds and more in the gusts.
Heading back down, my eldest just of ahead of me and Linda and my youngest is way ahead
A clearer spot allows for a better view out to Porthmadog, the cloud base though is clear. It hasn’t cleared as forecast, nor has the wind lessened
Looking back up to Cnicht
Moel Hebog in the cloud ahead and the four of us spread out
Looking back to Yr Arddu, which has a cloud cap now as well
Lower down on the path you get these signs to Cnicht summit
Heading back down the lane into Croesor at the end of the walk, on the descent we spoke to the chap who had attempted the summit and were glad we had not wanted to head up there.

10 thoughts on “Cnicht

  1. It will still be there when you return. Always take the sensible pragmatic decision. The summit scramble is quite exposed and a fall would be nasty. At least you got to enjoy the lower part of the ridge which pretty good

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