So after last weeks walk from Pentewan to Mevagissey, we again stayed coastal, and returned to an area of mine and Linda’s most frustrating walk. We’d visited the area north of Bude back in April 2023 with an afternoon walk to allow the rain and cloud to clear as the day went on, well that didn’t happen and we walked in low mist along high cliffs, missing those lovely plunging views down to the Atlantic and along the north coast of Cornwall. Well this walk would put right that blemish on our walking diary. We had lovely sunshine and enjoyed on of the best days walking we’d had this year, a fabulous bit of coastline and one of my favourite lunch spots I’ve ever been to, at Nabor Point. Not knowing the area very well, I’d decided to play safe and park in the village of Hartland, and walk the lanes to pick up the coastal path at South Hole. Then walk the coastal path to Hartland Quay, before returning inland to Hartland. This did leave some lengthy road sections and in hindsight, parking by the church in Stoke would have shortened the walk along the lanes somewhat. However this didn’t distract at all from seeing a lovely part of Devon and experiencing the superb views from these sets of cliffs.
Start – Hartland
Route – St Leonards – Lymebridge – Elmscott – South Hole – South West Coastal Path – Nabor Point – Mansley Cliff – Speke Mouth – St Catherine’s Tor – Hartland Quay – Stoke – Hartland
Distance – 11 miles Start time – Midday Time taken – 5hrs 45mins Highest Point – Sandhole Point 155 metres
Starting out from Hartland, there is a town car park behind me (free as I type here). That’s St John’s Chapel, unfortunately not open on this Saturday but the bell was in full working order as we set out at midday.We walked briefly through the village before heading down a lane and then through woodland, there is a brook down to my left here, we would cross a bridge over that and walk through an open field. Before finding a good track which climbed the opposite side of this valley.Lovely Speckled Wood, it hasn’t been the best year for butterflies (possibly due to the amount of wet weather) but it was nice to see lots out on this day at the end of September.Newton Cross, we were taking the Elmscott route and passing Docton Mill, which meant I was singing Doctor Mill, Doctor Mill in The Timelords fashion from 1988.Linda wasn’t impressed by my Doctor Mill version of the song so headed off Through one of the gates we captured our first glimpse to Lundy away in the distanceLymebridge, a lovely little hamlet on routeEdward 7th post box from 1901 to 1910 located after passing Docton MillAcross North Devon fields, some lovely blue sky and clouds aboveYouth Hostel in ElmscottLundy stands proud out to sea as we near the coastal path. Its been a few miles of walking to this point alreadyHeading up from South Hole to the coastal path, we see what views we could have been treated to the last time we came here, 18 months beforeIt was 2pm so we needed lunch and there can’t be a better bench and table in this country to enjoy a sarnie.Absolutely gloriousLinda is happy and is tucking in already! The cliffs which run down towards Bude are beyondAfter a fine lunch with astonishing views we continued on, a Small Copper gave us our second butterfly species of the day.Linda looking to LundyThe sunshine gave a great sparkle to the sea and the dramatic cliffs a fine sheer edgeLooks a bit like an Agaric mushroom but to be honest I haven’t a clue.A nice bench overlooking some raggedy rocksThe bench is behind me and the rocks down there still hold part of the ship which came agroundAs we reached the edge of Mansley Cliff we looked down to a lovely spot. The pointy St Catherine’s Tor stood out backed by Lundy.And descending to Speke Mouth the terrain became more lovelySpeke Mouth, the drop down was quite something being so close to the sea, this is a result of the rock here being so hard and the pounding waves and constant stream not able to carve a wide estuary as it normally would instead it meant you got something special……..
Speke Mouth Waterfall, this is the first drop another is to my right here resulting in a stunning end to a small stream before it hits the Atlantic
Next to Speke Mouth is St Catherine’s Tor, there used to be a small chapel at the summit but even without it, it is still a glorious sight by the sea.A Small White, one of the few that landed for me. Although the photo is still not greatLook at this, St Catherine’s Tor on the left and the cliffs down towards Sharpnose Point all in a lineHartland Quay below us and Lundy again in the backgroundWorth a zoom in to see Lundy in all its splendour, the lighthouse on Beacon Hill on the leftWe turn here and head inland, Hartland Quay is off to my left hereThis house is were we will return to next time and turn right across the field towards Hartland PointOne last look at LundyStoke Church, St Nectan’s, the cathedral of North Devon. The spire was huge.Inside St Nectan’sWalking through Stoke and some lovely light cast by the treesBack in Hartland after a long road walk, the pub, The Hart Inn was open but it was nearly 6pm and we had at least 90 mins to get home so we headed off rather than have a pint. I know its not my normal way but the length of the drive necessitated the need to leave. Still this did not detract from a superb walk, and one that will figure of the best of year, and maybe the best coastal walk of the year!
Fantastic stretch of coast and that waterfall is simply stunning. Like you I prize a great lunch spot, often I’ll wander about for many minutes until it’s just right – or like here when someone’s put it on a plate for you!😀
A gorgeous section of coastline. Glad you got your views in the end 🙂
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Over thirty years since I visited Hartland but I remember some good walks along the coast there and that is a perfectly positioned picnic bench!
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Doing the walk again was worth it. Looks beautiful and what a fantastic waterfall.
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I’ve seen a few coastal waterfalls on my way around but this one is by far the best
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Nice up there and used to be a quieter bit of coast once upon a time.
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The area around Speke Mouth and Hartland Quay was very busy as you can see from the car park picture. The rest though was very quiet which was nice.
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Nice coastal walk. The waterfall is quite impressive 😍.
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Fantastic stretch of coast and that waterfall is simply stunning. Like you I prize a great lunch spot, often I’ll wander about for many minutes until it’s just right – or like here when someone’s put it on a plate for you!😀
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The summer lunch spots are all about the view, those in the winter more about a bit of shelter, even if it means compromising on the outlook
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