So this was our second walk of our Weymouth stay, the previous day we’d been inundated with butterflies and today was no different. With all the dry weather its certainly helped our flighty friends and they have taken advantage of it. Today we saw lots of the same as our walk from Abbotsbury, with Meadow Brown, Marbled White, Gatekeeper all in attendance, but today was special for one little butterfly only found in this country on this part of the coast, the Lulworth Skipper. It is also abundant abroad but over here the chalk cliffs around Weymouth to Swanage seem to be its preferred place of residence. We started out in blazing weather, heading downhill from the National Trust car park high on the hill above Ringstead, We arrived quickly in the small hamlet by the sea and started off through high bushes, the sun was hot even at this early timing. Before long we climbed up to Burning Cliff, passing houses perched on the cliff edges, before heading off for White Nothe. Once we had past the coastguard houses the terrain changed to a drop down and climb up path, in the hot weather each climb became more difficult, but soon we arrived at Swyre Head and a view down to Durdle Door and its curving beach. Being a Monday the beach wasn’t too packed, but there were enough people forking out £20 for a day’s parking, to make the owners a few quid!! The climb up from Durdle Door to the car park was tiring and the sweat was begiining to irritate my eyes, mixed in with sun cream! The return back along the top was a superb route, more direct and with some face wipes, from Linda, I’d managed to ease the stinging in my eyes. Face wipes this week and needle and thread a few weeks before in Barnstaple, she must have Mary Poppins’ bottomless bag! So finally I’d visited Durdle Door on a stunning weather day, but the star was the Lulworth Skipper, hundreds of them along this section in late June, sat on long stems of grass basking. Brilliant stuff.
Start – Ringstead Bay car park
Route – Ringstead – South West Coastal Path – Burning Cliff – White Nothe – West Bottom – Middle Bottom – Swyre Head – Durdle Door – Newlands Farm – The Warren – Hill Barn – Sea Barn Farm – Ringstead car park
Distance – 9.5 miles Start time – 9.45am Time taken – 6hrs 30mins Highest Point – Above Whitenothe Cottages 165 metres
The long distance views were a little hazy. To the right is Weymouth (you can just make out the white sea frontage of the buildings and the sand) middle left is Portland, or at least the darker outline of itLinda crossing the fields down to RingsteadThis is about halfway up Burning cliffs, we stopped near the top for a coffee to keep the liquid intake upSt Catherine’s by the Sea on top of Burning Cliff. The cliff got its name after an underground fire, caused by bituminous shale catching fire in 1826 and smoldering for a number of years omitting a sulphur smellComma butterfly, better photo than the one on the previous walkLooking back to Ringstead and onwards to a disappearing WeymouthSimilar view but a bit of foregroundRinglet butterfly, trying to not give photos of the same ones I’d seen the day beforeThese are the coastguard cottages at White NotheLooking back to White Nothe (White Nose) on the left with the cottages in the trees A daymark on the left as we get out first look at the onward path, some ups and downs coming. Coffee break number two was had hereA Painted Lady from the backYep it does say Scratchy Bottom on this sign 🤣So here it is, the Lulworth Skipper, hundreds of these little things from the Daymark, all the way to Durdle Door. No doubt if we time the section to Swanage right in the future years, we could see lots more as wellHeading down to West BottomLooking back to White Nothe from the bottom of West Bottom!Silver Washed FritillaryQuite liked the look of these shiny beetles as wellChalky cliffsOne last down and up before our lunch stop which would be on Swyre Head, up there. For now we enjoy the view from Bat’s Head cliff to Butter Rock. Durdle Door is peeking out around Swyre HeadStunning coastline and its rise and fallLunch at Swyre Head, no one else here so we enjoyed the view down to Durdle Door. Hambury Tout is the next high point. That will be for next time thoughDurdle DoorAnd again with a bit more of the beachHappy walkers at Durdle DoorSt Oswald’s Bay is the next part on from Durdle Door with The Man o’ War rocks protecting this small beach. We climbed steeply from here up to the extortionate car park and beyond to Newlands Farm, before turning left and back towards the carUp from Durdle Door is the obvious campsite/caravan park facilities we would expect, with Hambury Tout rising above thoseLinda spots cows in the distance, we head up right to the fenceline and follow the path along there, avoiding the bovineLooking back to Durdle Door from the high path across The WarrenRise and fall of the coastal pathI struggled across here, my eyes had worsened, but some face wipes had me back on track Looking inland down the valley towards West ChaldonWe’d gone through Sea Barn Farm by this point, looking back at the trees in the distance where the coastguards houses are on White NotheVery hazy views to PortlandAs we reach the car park, a stunning walk. so much to see here, including a little butterfly, and you can extend it to Lulworth Cove if needed. The return route is superb, a high traverse with very little rise and fall which is perfect to get you back to your car.
That all seems very familiar having done the same route (the coastal bit anyway) last year. One of my favourite costal walks but a tough one. Those up/downs from Durdle Door to Ringstead are brutal. The pint we had at Osmington was well deserved. £20 parking!! That’s outrageous! I’m glad I caught the bus from Weymouth and walked back. Total cost £41
I was saying to Linda as we walked down to Ringstead beach that you’d walked this section and said how tough it was. It didn’t disappoint. The £20 at Durdle Door matches the amount at Pen y Pass, it was also £4 for an hour and £12.50 for 4 hours!! Complete rip off, when you consider the bus goes there
I understand the Pen-y-Pass charges as the car park is tiny, but massively popular and the cost is just to put people off using it and to use the one down at Pen-y-Gwyrd or the shuttle bus from Llanberis. The one at Durdle Door is just pure profiteering. The high level walk back to where you parked looked a really good route as well
The Coast to Coast (Alfred Wainwright version) is further north from St Bees Head in Cumbria to Robin Hood Bay in Yorkshire. There’s also a coast to coast in Devon (more commonly called the Two Moors Way with a section added on). The runs from Wembury beach in the south to Lynton on the north Devon coast
No shade at all and the white rocks and paths reflected the sun. Tough place to walk with all the ups and downs, but the coastline makes up for all of it
I was in the midst of trying to clean out the suncream/sweat mix from my eyes by the selfie point. Hence I’m not wearing my glasses, Linda looks amazing as always and lifts the quality of the picture
Isn’t Durdle Door a striking sight. Have actually been! Many years ago with our previous labrador Jake. We have a picture up of him posing next to DD. And a turquoise sea , it was a hot day like yours. Great show of insects and love the shiny green beetles 🪲 possibly shield bugs?
My memory of Ringstead is of a signpost on the approach road with about a dozen rules about what you could and couldn’t do in the village! Nice beach though
That all seems very familiar having done the same route (the coastal bit anyway) last year. One of my favourite costal walks but a tough one. Those up/downs from Durdle Door to Ringstead are brutal. The pint we had at Osmington was well deserved. £20 parking!! That’s outrageous! I’m glad I caught the bus from Weymouth and walked back. Total cost £41
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I was saying to Linda as we walked down to Ringstead beach that you’d walked this section and said how tough it was. It didn’t disappoint. The £20 at Durdle Door matches the amount at Pen y Pass, it was also £4 for an hour and £12.50 for 4 hours!! Complete rip off, when you consider the bus goes there
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I understand the Pen-y-Pass charges as the car park is tiny, but massively popular and the cost is just to put people off using it and to use the one down at Pen-y-Gwyrd or the shuttle bus from Llanberis. The one at Durdle Door is just pure profiteering. The high level walk back to where you parked looked a really good route as well
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That route back was superb, flat most of the way and some good views inland
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Absolutely stunning. Do many people still do the Coast to Coast walk or is that further up North?
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The Coast to Coast (Alfred Wainwright version) is further north from St Bees Head in Cumbria to Robin Hood Bay in Yorkshire. There’s also a coast to coast in Devon (more commonly called the Two Moors Way with a section added on). The runs from Wembury beach in the south to Lynton on the north Devon coast
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Thanks for the information which I will explore more.
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It’s a glorious coastline, isn’t it, but not a scrap of shade! I can see and feel that heat haze xx
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No shade at all and the white rocks and paths reflected the sun. Tough place to walk with all the ups and downs, but the coastline makes up for all of it
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brilliant weather for it – love the sunny selfie 😊
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I was in the midst of trying to clean out the suncream/sweat mix from my eyes by the selfie point. Hence I’m not wearing my glasses, Linda looks amazing as always and lifts the quality of the picture
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What an absolutely glorious walk, and perfect weather!
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Isn’t Durdle Door a striking sight. Have actually been! Many years ago with our previous labrador Jake. We have a picture up of him posing next to DD. And a turquoise sea , it was a hot day like yours. Great show of insects and love the shiny green beetles 🪲 possibly shield bugs?
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I saw the shield bugs and did wonder if it was those, there were hundreds of them everywhere
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What a great walk. Glad you had the open skies.
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Durdle door is absolutely stunning.
Must have been a great walk.
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It was a stunning place, would love to see it when it is quieter, such a popular spot
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My memory of Ringstead is of a signpost on the approach road with about a dozen rules about what you could and couldn’t do in the village! Nice beach though
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