Holywell to Crantock

November weather has been, well, awful. Week after week of rainy days, even when they forecast a dry day, it would have heavy showers in it. Confidence on the reporting was low, as the weather companies only seemed to accurately report when it would rain all day. Photos online of cold frosty blue sky days in the Lakes and Scotland, had certainly not been replicated down here. As a result we have switched to walking in woodland and off the main part of Dartmoor for a bit, in fact the last time we walked on Dartmoor proper was 22nd October. This walk continued the recent theme, with rain forecast for parts of the day, so we stayed off Dartmoor and went to the north Cornwall coast, where the rain would be lighter and clear earlier. As it was we started in the dry, then it rained, then it stopped again. At least the majority of the walk was in the dry and the coastal sections were free from rain, which vindicated my decision to walk the inland loop first. The highlight of the walk is the dunes around Holywell, normally walking through dunes can be a slog as you feet sink into soft sand. However the path through The Kelseys was mostly firm and with good views, this made for some fine walking and some nice photos of the grassy dunes. The coastal path then leaves the dunes and rises to Kelsey Head, with the wind howling across this headland. Then just as you think the walk is nearing its end we reached Porth Joke and a small seal colony, getting a lovely view down to them on a secluded beach below. Porth Joke would be the quietest of the 3 beaches along this walk, being a fair distance from any car park, no bad thing for the seals. The other two beaches are Crantock and Holywell, with both places having a decent sized NT car parks, meaning they would be busier in the summer. Overall the walking here is very easy with not much in the way of rise and fall and great views along the coast, especially towards Newquay and Trevose Head. I’ve found out that driving to Newquay from Plymouth is about an hour so more walks near here are planned to help complete more of the coastal path.

Start – Crantock Beach

Route – South West Coastal Path – The Gannel estuary – Crantock – Treago Farm – Cubert Common – The Kelseys – Holywell – The Kelseys – Kelsey Head – Porth Joke – Pentire Point West – Crantock Beach

Distance – 7.5 miles    Start time – 11.30am   Time taken – 4hrs 20mins  Highest Point – No more than 50 metres on Cubert Common

Weather – Drizzly to start with, then cloudy and very windy

© Crown copyright 2023 Ordnance Survey FL 2023 SF
Crantock beach and estuary. The river on the right here is the Gannel, there are 3 ways to cross this river if you are walking here (Newquay is the bank on the right rising up). You can can a small summer ferry across which will land somewhere here. Further upstream is a crossing point which can be done at low tide, and a bridge further inland. We were heading up the estuary to look at the low tide crossing point. This photo was taken about 3 hours before low tide and plenty of the water has gone out and exposed the sand.
Linda and The Gannel estuary, there were a few rivulets of water still running down, but nothing deeper than a couple of inches
From a point over there, running directly across the river is the suggested route across, possibly passing that post that is in the centre of the estuary. Next we headed uphill along a lane to Crantock.
Crantock, the rain had been falling since we’d left the estuary so we had coffee in the bus stop, Remembrance poppies are wrapped around the tree. There’s two pubs here and a shop and post office alongside the thatched cottages and village hall here on the right.
St Carantoc’s in Crantock. The existing building has parts dating from 12th century and a church of sorts has been here since the 6th century
The interior of the church, the font is also 12th century
The altar area
Outside are these stocks which date from 17th century
After negotiating some cows we headed across Cubert Common
That’s Porth Joke down there, dark clouds above heralded more rain at this point. Thankfully by the time we reached Porth Joke we had dry weather
About to head into The Kelseys, two happy but damp walkers.
Linda giving some perspective to the dunes here as we walk into Holywell
We had lunch here on a bench by Holywell beach, I attempted to walk towards the sea and take a photo or two but the sand was being whipped across here by the fierce winds
Dunes, Holywell style, the village of Holywell is up there on the left. There a large bar/cafe on the beach and a pub in the village alongside the decent NT car park.
Gull Rocks off Holywell beach, they were in view for a section all the way to Kelsey Head and made for a fine focal point for a photo. We could also see the waves were pounding in around here and the wind again was whipping up the sand into our faces
No surfing today, the swell and rough seas saw to that
Holywell beach and Gull Rocks off Penhale Point
As it says. We didn’t see any Kelseys, maybe they were hiding in the dunes.
Lots of white water, crashing waves and wind here
From here you could see the sea pummeling the back of Gull Rocks
Linda is heading to Kelsey Head now, just out of shot on the left
First we rounded this inlet, the sea foam was getting blown up here to where we stand
Pentire Point West across Porth Joke as we leave Kelsey Head
Another photo showing the rough seas entering Porth Joke, the roped section in front of me wasn’t to keep me safe from the edge, instead it was for…………
…..these. Seals on a secluded beach in Porth Joke. It was around 3pm so low tide, and the sea doesn’t go out far enough for a human to walk over here. Before too long the 3 frolicking in the edge of the sea, had headed off to play fight in the waves. The other 5 slept as we watched them.
One or two seals on the move for a better sleeping spot
On the beach at Porth Joke, again the odd rivulet would be running down the beach, necessitating a few jumps to stay dry.
Porth Joke as we head out to Pentire Point West
On Pentire Point West looking back across Porth Joke to Kelsey Head. The secluded beach is the inlet in the cliff over there, as you can see the sea is still rolling past that inlet. The island off Kelsey Head is called The Chick.
Now heading down to Crantock Beach, the drizzle was just starting briefly here but it went as quick as it came
More crashing waves on a small island next to The Goose
Stunning Crantock Beach
The waves were really rolling in here, there was one brave soul kite surfing across the beach and waves here. No issues with the amount of wind here, blowing a hoolie
Last part now as we approach the dunes behind Crantock Beach. The River Gannel has two routes across this beach at times. This part near to me and the section that runs right up against the headland on the far side
Nearly at the car now and the Gannel estuary briefly comes into view, looking drier than when we walked it a few hours earlier. A stunning bit of coast and we both really enjoying seeing it at its most untamed and brutal, alongside the dunes. More walks like this please.

14 thoughts on “Holywell to Crantock

  1. I love a coastal walk in wild conditions like that. Seeing the seals must have been a real pleasure. There is (or certainly was) a colony down near Godrevy Point further south. Never been to Holywell Beach but spent many happy days at Crantock. Great beach for kayak surfing and the tide pools along the river were great for catching crabs.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Lots of dunes around both ends of this coastal section, apparently a haven for adders as well. I’ve not done the section of path from St Ives up to Holywell yet but the Godrevy seals are noted, believe they are in Mutton Cove normally at low tide

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