Bologna Day 2 – The Porticoes

The Porticoes or Portici of Bologna are a Unesco World Heritage Site and measure in at 62km long, with 40km in city centre. They are made from wood, stone, blocks, bricks, elegantly painted, or just a plain colour, they are long (4km), narrow (95cm) and high (12.94m). They started out as a way to increase accommodation due to the new university in Bologna, lots were built in the 1300-1400s and the one we would walk is the most famous, starting at the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca, high on the hill and finishing at Porta Saragozza at the walls of Bologna, its 4km long and is built with 666 arches! Devilish almost! We’d arrived the day before and had a bimble around to see what was what, looking at the weather the temperature would rise as the days went on and I figured 28 degrees was high enough to do this walk, so we set off around 11am well rested and full up with cornettos and pistachio cream! We would pass through the residential areas to the football stadium and then join the portico walk as it headed up the 300m hill, it took a bit to get up as we stopped to take photos (rest in the heat) and drink plenty of water. Arriving after 45 mins of climbing to a fantastic view across hilly green countryside, towards higher mountains, it was lovely. We headed into the church after noting a drinking water tap below to refill bottles, and spent a good hour admiring the stunning interior, we got lucky with our choice of time to visit the alter area, with the nuns closing the doors as we walked through, we were also sure to cover up inside these places in a respectful manner, others hadn’t and were told under no uncertain terms to cover shoulders quickly. This would be a trait of the holiday as we visited dozens of churches/basilicas, always carry a shawl of some type.

Heading back out into the sun we enjoyed a view of the exterior, filled our water bottles and started off down the Porticoes, ticking of the arch numbers as we went. Occasionally there would be an alcove, with a bible scene and description or a murial, all the time the views to the town were with us. Soon we reached the flat at Arco del Meloncello and followed the city elements towards Porta Saragozza, arriving there around 2.30pm. Perfect for a break for lunch and a rest of weary feet. The rest of the day I’ll save for another post as it involves a lot of the centre of Bologna, some fantastic buildings and gelato!

Bologna football stadium, Stadio Renato Dall’Ara was our first aim, which took us near to Arco Del Meloncello
Arco Del Meloncello, an 18th century rococo portico and city entrance gate, the porticoes continue on my right and we would walk up there and across the Arco to join the Portico di San Luca
Yours truly spoiling the view up the porticoes. I have trousers on as I wasn’t certain on the restrictions on shorts in the churches, as it turned out I needn’t have worried, but best to be sure.
The football stadium and the steep climb shown. I didn’t take too many photos walking up as the return route is the real walk.
The outside of the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca, a 12th century baroque style Roman Catholic church
The views from the church were stunning to the north
Two very happy people in Bologna
Inside the Sanctuary, stunning columns and truly amazing altar
Some lovely alcove decorations as well
Both sides
We’d walked forward to look closer at the altar and saw people heading through a door to the right and returning from the left, we followed
There are the people, so we headed off to the right, the marble columns and whole altar were stunning
On the altar and looking back out
One last look at the whole interior
Outside again and looking to the hills again
The stunning exterior of the 12th century sanctuary, the other side appears to be under some renovation and we couldn’t get around but we weren’t concerned as this was fabulous
Bologna from the start of the Porticoes walk, the cathedral and centre can be seen middle right if you zoom a bit
Starting the walk back
Linda is off, 4km to the finish. Shawl had been taken off now we were outside again
Portici
At regular points were these bible scene with board to explain each one, some were more obvious
Me again, obviously happy at this point, probably the refilled water bottles which were a godsend in each of the places we visited
Clearer look to Bologna now across green woods and fields
537 having started at 666, still lots to go
There is a road that winds its way to the top but the Porticoes is the right way
Back down at Arco Del Meloncello
Stood on the arch, you can see the Porticoes carry on down the left hand side
Lovely curving portico
Finally finished, as were my feet by this point, number 1 is reached and we headed off for some refreshments
Porta Saragozza was behind me on the last photo, and a gateway to the old walled part of Bologna. You can see more porticoes through the arch and we would walk them to find food. These porticoes stretch across the city in all directions and are brilliant for shading you from the hot sun. We really noticed a difference when visiting Florence in similar temperatures, almost getting heatstroke in Florence, despite drinking more, but in Bologna we were never bothered by such things due to these fantastic Bologna piece of engineering and creativity.

7 thoughts on “Bologna Day 2 – The Porticoes

  1. Absolutely stunning. Magnificent views and that church is wonderful. We found that in the Italian cities, even the small, less known churches were simply superb. They had these covered walkways in Turin but nothing like these. They were more useful for me to stay dry as I got caught by a massive thunderstorm while I was having a look around. Bologna looks like a superb place

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    • Its a city that has less expectations but delivers way, way above. It has tourists but not too many, there are loads of places to see, we would need to go back to see more. the food is amazing and then there are these places, the porticoes, we saw a fraction of them and some are beautifully decorated and we didn’t get around to seeing them. Its my favourite italian city and I’ve been to Rome, Florence, Pisa and Siena so far.

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  2. Looks amazing. Very interesting. Thanks for sharing. Also in Italy, there are interesting strolls on routes following stations of the cross and finishing at an impressive church – often in fairly small towns where there aren’t too many tourists.

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