Modena Day 4

After three days in Bologna we headed off for a change, a 25 minute train journey had us stepping onto the platform in Modena, home of balsamic vinegar, Enzo Ferrari, Luciano Pavarotti and some fantastic places to visit. We had a rough idea to visit the Duomo and then have a wander around, just enjoying the place. Its a lovely little town, with enough to do for a day and if you add in the Ferrari museum or a vinegar tour as well, then you’ll be kept busy. For us we followed our nose and headed around from street to street, site to site and took our time. We started out leaving the train station and heading to the main square, Piazza Roma and the Palazzo Ducale di Modena (the huge military academy). We first headed into Chiesa do San Domenico before having a second breakfast of a cappuccino and a pastry. Next we headed down to Piazza Grande for the Duomo, the view from the Piazza is of the rear and side of the Duomo, with the front to the western side. We spent a while in this Romanesque cathedral, built in 1184 with a tall tower and a fascinating crypt holding the remains of Modena’s Saint Geminianus. After that we needed lunch, so wandered until we found a place we liked, Linda tried her best Italian only to be baffled by the reply! These learn a language videos are fine for the speaking part, but forget to add on potential replies! Undeterred we headed off for the fabulous Mercato Albinelli (the market), we’d skirted past on our search for lunch but I wanted to return as I’d spied something. We again looped around the stalls, looking at meats, cheese, jars, cafes and everything foodie, but there was one stall, a balsamic stall that I wanted to look at and as we approached the stools were empty. The young lad asked of I wanted to try a bit, oh yes please. The first spoon was just a cooking balsamic (the best I’ve every tasted), the second a glaze for meat or veggies (a step up in quality), then the 10 year old, stunning sticky sweet vinegar, use this for the Sunday dinner he said. Then the 25 year old, the young lad describing the process of barrels reducing in size as they go. Finally the 50 year old, the spoon still coated with the thick vinegar after I’d tried it, a stunning product. We bought two small bottles, cheaper than I could buy most balsamic back in the UK and can understand the efforts that goes into the making, similar to that of whisky here. I was very happy at this point, but had one further task to hand, a leather belt, or three to be precise, presents for my boys. The shop we chose was superb, and the owner measured me and cut my choice of belt to fit me with an extra hole. From there we headed back in the direction of the train station, passing two weddings as we went. For the second wedding we sat in a bar, as the guests lined the steps for 30 minutes, waiting for the bride and groom to emerge. Confetti everywhere as they came into the bright sunlight, driving off in a Mini Cooper! So a lovely day out, 6 euros on the train return to get there and some lovely gifts for us to take home.

Train station in Modena, even the buses match the station colour here
Piazza Roma, water fountains and the military academy building to the left
Chiesa di San Domenico
Stunning marble columns here, baroque in style from 1731
The altar
Closer look at the altar, we were two of 4 people in here, very quiet despite being on the main square
Palazzo Ducale di Modena, the military academy
Chiesa di San Giorgio, we saw our second wedding here later on, and sat in the bar on the right to watch the proceedings
It was stunning inside this small church, built in the 1600’s and holding a number of Baroque paintings. I loved the balconies that went all around the top
Another lovely altar
Piazza Grande and the Palazzo Comunale
The Duomo across the Piazza Grande
Inside the 12th century Duomo, as you can see from the picture of the square above and in here, Modena is a quiet town not too busy and plenty of space to wander around.
The stunning rose window above the main door
The altar with the crypt behind and the balcony above (think there was a charge for the balcony area)
The crypt behind the altar
The remains of the Saint Geminianus in the crypt
Madonna con Bambino
The columns in the crypt, we sat in here for a little while
The front of the Duomo
Wandering the streets of Modena, we loved doing this.
Mercato Albinelli, I had been sat on those stools a few minutes earlier trying the balsamic and listening to how they made them all. A brilliant thing to do, especially as we didn’t have time to go for a proper tour
Back in Piazza Grande is this stone, the Pietra Ringadora, made of red marble, it started in the Middle Ages as the pulpit for orators speaking to the public. But is more known as the haranguing stone for those who blasphemed or who owed debt, or to identify a corpse.
Happy Modena visitors by the Torre Guirlandina
Back at the front of the Duomo, I’d bought my leather belts and we watched as a wedding finished with a yellow Ferrari ready to whisk them away
Back at the reflecting pools by the military academy, the bride and groom from the second wedding have emerged and are over there having photos taken. We had partaken in Aperol spritz before heading for the station. A fab visit to a lovely town.

10 thoughts on “Modena Day 4

  1. Is there an Italian town or city that isn’t charming and beautiful? I’ve only heard of Modena for its connection to,Balsamic Vinegar. What a gorgeous place. I’ve read that all the towns and cities up there are fabulous, Mantua, Padua, Vicenza etc. We’ve been to Verona which is stunning as well but very busy.

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