The Black Mountain

I’ve had this walk in mind for the last 3 years and finally I pulled the car into some roadside parking and looked across the yellowy grass towards the high ridge that held Llyn y Fan Fawr beneath it. It was worth the wait. The weather was again, unbelievably kind to us. Apart from hazy distance views, we had sunshine, light winds and t-shirt walking weather. The only real trouble was the start and end over boggy ground, but we are used to that on Dartmoor. We set off and headed for Llyn y Fan Fawr, stopping about 3/4s of the way up for a coffee. I’m not sure we picked the right route of less or more boggy ground but we arrived in good time and quickly set about the main climb of the day, to Fan Brycheiniog, which at 802 metres would be the high point of the day. Once at height we turned right for the trig point, all the time looking back at the views and the duo setting up their hand gliders. Just as we reached the trig point, one of the duo serenely passed us, turning at Fan Foel to go back along the face of the ridge. We carried on to Fan Foel, catching our first views to Picws Du and Llyn y Fan Fach as we arrived at the cairn. It was approaching lunch time so we found a spot giving us a good view west to Llyn y Fan Fach and the next couple of hours of our walk. Full up we set off first for Picws Du and then the top overlooking Llyn y Fan Fach, called Bannau Sir Gaer. We dropped down to the Llyn, crossing the dam and following a leat for a short section to the Afon Sychlwch and the dam there, it was time for another coffee stop and time for a biscuit or 3. We had a decision to make here, either we follow the Beacons Way which hugs the base of the ridge we had just walked, or cut directly across the hillside for the base of Fan Foel. The latter option won out, and the path was a good one grassy and not boggy, giving us some good views to the steep slopes above. This bit took longer than I expected, and we climbed up to the Beacons Way a bit tired, so we planned another stop as we rounded the corner heading back to Llyn y Fan Fawr. We looked out towards Mid Wales with the Usk Reservoir in view, as we enjoyed a leisurely stop off, enjoying the light as the sun turned towards the golden hour. We quickly made the Llyn again and started off dropping down towards the car, we started off on a different route but soon joined our outward path and made the car. Delighted with our walk and relieved to finally make it here. All that was needed was a pub stop off for a celebration pint, the plan was The Ancient Briton, apparently the Wales pub of the year in 2025 (according to the sign outside) but the world, his wife and hamster was turning up at 5pm, so we did a quick about turn for the Penycae Inn a mile or so back up the road and enjoyed a nice pint in a busy but not rammed pub. A fine end to a great day, the next day would be another walk and an epic.

Start – Just south of Bwlch Cerrig Duon

Route – Llyn y Fan Fawr – Bwlch Giedd – Fan Brycheiniog (Black Mountain) – Fan Foel – Bwlch Blaen-Twrch – Picws Du – Bannau Sir Gaer – Llyn y Fan Fach – Waun Sychlwch – Cefn Bryn y Fuwch – Beacons Way – Llyn y Fan Fawr – Just south of Bwlch Cerrig Duon

Distance – 9.5 miles   Start time – 10.30am  Time taken – 6hrs 15mins  Highest Point – Fan Brycheiniog 802 metres

Weather – A bit hazy but lovely all the way around

© Crown copyright 2026 Ordnance Survey FL 2026 SF
Looking up to Fan Brycheiniog as we start out
Blaentawe which is the start of the River Tawe
Fan Gyhirych and some hazy views as we start the steady climb to the first Llyn
Llyn y Fan Fawr, this is a lovely spot, a bit quieter than the other Llyn and easier to get a spot to yourself
Starting the steeper climb to Fan Brycheiniog
Llyn y Fan Fawr below looking more blue as we climb
Bwlch Giedd below and Fan Hir beyond that. Fan Gyhirych in the distance and llyn y Fan Fawr down to the left
Fan Brycheiniog summit trig and a hand glider turning to head back this way
Here he is, he must have had a GPS tracker system onboard as it was bleeping as he passed us
Fan Brycheiniog, a long time coming!
What a day this was turning out to be, the classic ridge edges of the Brecon Beacons
Heading to Fan Foel which is out of shot to the right and the rest of our walk stretching away in front of us
Picws Du is up next, but for now we found a sheltered spot just down there and had lunch
Bwlch Blaen-Twrch, Picws Du is up to the right here, you can drop down into the valley behind me on a good path. Infact we saw lots of people doing the Llyn y Fan Fach/Picws Du round from the car to the north of the Llyn on the Beacons Way
Picws Du summit and the bowl of Llyn y Fan Fach behind
Looking the other way to Fan Foel and Fan Brycheiniog
Looking good from up here
The summit of Bannau Sir Gaer and the edges of Picws Du and Fan Foel
Moving to the edge of Bannau Sir Gaer to get the proper view back along the edges
If anything it was more impressive as we dropped giving us the views back up
Linda infront of the layered rock
Llyn y Fan Fach as we crossed the dam. people were getting ready for a night’s camping here, this Llyn seemed busier than other one with the bigger car park below to the north
The direct grassy route across Cefn Bryn y Fuwch, Picws Du up to the left
After a brow stop we rounded the corner and caught our second look at Llyn y Fan Fawr. The distance views are much clearer now
Some reflections at Llyn y Fan Fawr, again one or two camping but it seems more serene here
Our route back down (you can see a bit of the path to the left). A great day and just the boggy bit to cross to finish which is always easier in descent
Nearly 5pm now and the sun is in golden hour mode as we reach the car
Sunset from the cottage, the Black Mountain in the distance (centre left). Such a good day.

Leave a comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.