Firstly I’ll apologise for the number of photos in this post, there is a lot. But then again we crammed a lot into one day in Florence, probably more than we should and feet were aching by the end and we did around 12 miles in walking. As I’m sure lots of people know, there’s plenty to see in Florence and we wanted to have a good look at lots of it. The day was planned around what was busy, so the Duomo was done early and things like Piazza della Signoria were later in the day, as they are open air. You can’t do everything and we didn’t visit the Uffizi, Galleria dell’Accademia or the Santa Maria Novella Basilica. There will be other nuggets that require a few days in Florence to get to as well, or a tower to climb but for us we did well and maybe a revisit at some point will sort those parts. We started the day at Bologna station at 9am, walking down 4 levels to get to the Frecciarossa train, yes that’s right 4 floors down, it felt very odd going so far underground to get on a train, a high speed one at that, which would then rise to the surface after leaving the station. The journey to Florence was quick, but our abiding memory is mainly of tunnels as the line to Florence cuts through hills and towns on its way, so no viewing the lovely countryside (that would come the next day on our train north). We arrived in Florence and set off for the Duomo, it opens at 10.15, its free entry if you queue, which we did for around 40 mins to get in. We were glad to get that done early in the day and not pay for a tour, yes its a great sight from the outside but we were underwhelmed by the inner. Its big and the dome is beautifully decorated, but the rest is fairly plain and similar to other better basilicas in Bologna, sorry to those who are a fan but it didn’t cut mustard for us. Leaving the Duomo, we had a booking for Santa Croce later in the day, so we had around 5 hours to ourselves, so we wandered a bit. We grabbed an early lunch, which was washed down with a beer at 11.45am (Aperol for Linda!!) and headed for the Arno (the river running through Florence), admiring the Ponte Vecchio along the waters. We crossed the river to the west on Ponte Santa Trinita and explored the south side of the river, it was starting to get very hot, so we took shade in a couple of churches before we decided to head for Piazzale Michelangelo. A fools errand in such heat, but we were brave and walked up the steeps climb to the view. Reaching the summit we downed water and tried to cool off, the views are superb from here, but we should have taken longer on the walk and stopped for more refreshments. Descending down the front we passed lots of waterfalls and Porta San Niccolo, sitting under trees for half an hour to recover where Linda thought she had a little heat stroke. We took on lots of water, using fountains to top up bottles for a third time by the Porta, before slowly making our way to Santa Croce, the inside of this church holds the burial places of lots of famous Renaissance artists, plus others we’ve all heard of, it was the one place I wanted to visit.
The Piazza outside of Santa Croce was full of seating and stands, all ready for the final of the Calcio Storico Fiorentino an annual game between the Azzurri (blues-Santa Croce district), Rossi (Reds – Santa Maria Novella district), Verdi (Greens – San Giovanni district) and Bianchi (Whites – Santo Spirito district). Its a game which mixes football, rugby and wrestling, played on this sand covered square for 50 minutes in June, with 2 semi finals and the final. As we visited the Rossi and Azzurri had got through to play the final a few days later (won by the Azzurri). The stands and seating spoilt the views to the basilica along the square, however the inside is the main part of this stunning building. It was now nearly 5pm and we still had plenty to pack in, first we went to see Ponte Vecchio before walking past the Uffizi and through to Piazza della Signoria. I think by this point we’d walked by 4 or 5 wine windows, ignoring the need to stand in the street drinking a glass of wine. We instead headed to another café and grabbed more refreshments and food, before heading to refill bottles for a 4th time from another tap in a small park. we then walked back via the Duomo towards the train station, deciding to sit outside the closed Basilica Santa Maria Novella for a while to rest weary legs and enjoy the evening as the sun set. There was music playing as we sat, looking at the square, basilica and architecture around us. Before too long we headed to the station for our train back to Bologna and packing for the next day. A trip north to the Dolomites.
Walking to the train station we passed Porta Lame, this was the 4th of these old gates we’d seen here, the are more to the east of the city, maybe another visit is needed 😊. The Frecchiarossa train was on time and whisked us to Florence that was after we had descended into the depths of the station to get to the platform 4 floors down.Yours truly in Florence in front of one of its more recognisable buildings, the Duomo or Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore. Nearest is the baptistry part which the church and tower behindBaptistry on the right here and the front of the church and tower. It was around 10am and we walked down the left hand side to join the back of the queue to enter, we started pretty much at the back. You must be covered to enter this Duomo, although it is free to enter the main part of the Duomo, you need to pay if you wish to ascend the tower, walk around the top of the dome or enter the baptistry
Got to love an ornate doorway
An once inside you see the back of the door
Inside the Duomo. Once inside most people head to the far endI was taken by the clock above the doorThe altar area, above which you haveBrunelleschi’s dome built between 1420 and 1438 of white marble, the Last Judgement was painted in the 1570s. There are actually two domes with 8 sides, one side is set back from the others and supports the structure alongside the ribs joining the two domes.
Happy Duomo visitors
The Last Judgement detail on the ceilingAfter the Duomo we walked towards the river area, here we pass Piazza della RepubblicaThe Church and Museum of Orsanmichele
Linda then made us stop for refreshments and made me buy a beer at 11,45am, honest!
Ponte Vecchio from the next bridge along Ponte Santa TrinitaLinda on Ponte Santa Trinita, a 16th century bridge, we would cross here and head towards a basilica on the other sideWe must have took a wrong turn and missed the Basilica Santa Spirito and my phone signal was a bit squiffy at this point, but we ended up here at Cheisa di Santa Maria del CarmineWhich was lovely inside, this baroque church has plenty of frescoes in the chapels on either side, we then headed back down to the river and sat on the steps of another church to drink some water, before the long walk up to Piazzale MichelangeloOn the way we passed Palazzo Pitti, this holds lots of Renaissance artworks
There is also a well placed water fountain outside. Refills needed at this point
Climbing to the Piazzale we start to get those classic views over FlorenceAnd more as we walk up through the Giardino della RoseThe Arno cuts through the picture, Ponte Vecchio on the left. the tower is Palazzo Vecchio, then the Duomo. On the right is Santa Croce, we will be there later. We didn’t stay too long as it was blisteringly hot up here. SO we decided to descend and find shadeWe’d refilled bottles again and walked past Porta San Niccolo, part of the old 13th century walls. Plenty of trees here for shade, so we sat for 30 mins taking on more water and cooling down a littleWe crossed at the Ponte alle Grazie with these views east towards the Villamagna area in the hills
We saw around 4 or 5 of these wine windows on our travels around Florence, not for me
Now at Santa Croce, the Piazza in front was covered in seating an a sandy arena, ready for the final of the Calcio Storico Fiorentino. We headed inside this Franciscan masterpiece to see one of the most stunning buildings in Italy.
The huge altar greets you as you head in a side door, the building was built around 1294 to 1300. Artworks in here include Donatello, Henry Moore and Gaddi
Two of Napoleon’s family are buried in here, this is Charlotte, the niece of Napoleon. Julie Clary is also here who is her mother.
Stunning side chapels
The Medici chapel
And another, there are 16 in total, all beautifully decorated. The St Francis one was closed for restoration when we came
The Basilica is famous for the Renaissance individuals that are buried here. This is Rossini
Machiavelli
Dante
Michelangelo
Looking along the stunning Santa Croce
And finally Galileo. There are lots of others including Bruni and two plaques to Marconi and Da Vinci
We also looked at the side chapel which was built by Brunelleschi as wellAnd around the Grand cloistersBack outside at the front of this stunning marble façade Now back at the river, we’d topped our bottles up in a park and drunk lots whilst there. Now looking at Ponte VecchioThe gold shops line this bridge, the only bridge not destroyed during WW2. Medici also had a corridor built across the top of this bridge, which allowed him to connect his home to his work place, the Vasari walkway was built in 1565, it is 750 metres long and runs from the Palazzo Pitti to the Uffizi gallery high above the streets. It runs through a church, where a special balcony was built to allow the Medici family to attend church and not mix with the commoners.
Copy of the David statue outside the Palazzo Vecchio
And the Neptune fountain in Piazza della SignoriaPiazza della Signoria and the tower of Palazzo VecchioAfter another stop off for food we headed back towards the station, passing the Duomo for one last time
We had a little time so sat in the square outside Santa Novella for a while, there was a singer and the sun was setting at the end of a brilliant day. Very tiring but we felt that our 4 hours on a train the next day would allow for a more restful time. Soon we headed back to Bologna to pack, ready for the Dolomites.
I’d read the Florence is incredibly overcrowded, even more so than Rome and Venice but it does look stunning. It looks Bologna was a superb base with easy access to other cities and I’m guessing nothing like the costs of Florence for accommodation. One of my friends stayed in Pisa and said it was stunning and much cheaper than Florence
Yes we found Bologna to be very reasonable, but for accommodation and eating out, especially as we stayed in a residential area, so all the cafes, bakeries and restaurants were aimed at the locals. 45euros for us two to have 2 courses, bottle of wine, coffee and a digestif at the end (plus the table charge which is fairly standard everywhere), that was in two different restaurants as well. Florence was just busier, the other side of the Arno is quieter but even then I would say it compared to Bologna. As you say the base that Bologna gives you is superb, we could have gone to Rimini, Parma, Ferrara and loads of other places from there
Florence is one city I would return to and yes, there is a lot of photos 🙂
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Sorry about the number of photos
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All good 🙂
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Enjoyed your post, I’d love to go back to Florence. We visited Verona last year and loved that too, despite its much smaller scale.
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We’ve booked Verona for next year so looking forward to that already
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You should consider booking a trip along the Bernina Express too, not that far from Verona – we stayed overnight at Tirano.
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Stunning photos.
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I’d read the Florence is incredibly overcrowded, even more so than Rome and Venice but it does look stunning. It looks Bologna was a superb base with easy access to other cities and I’m guessing nothing like the costs of Florence for accommodation. One of my friends stayed in Pisa and said it was stunning and much cheaper than Florence
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Yes we found Bologna to be very reasonable, but for accommodation and eating out, especially as we stayed in a residential area, so all the cafes, bakeries and restaurants were aimed at the locals. 45euros for us two to have 2 courses, bottle of wine, coffee and a digestif at the end (plus the table charge which is fairly standard everywhere), that was in two different restaurants as well. Florence was just busier, the other side of the Arno is quieter but even then I would say it compared to Bologna. As you say the base that Bologna gives you is superb, we could have gone to Rimini, Parma, Ferrara and loads of other places from there
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I loved Florence. You managed a lot in a day xx
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We were a bit shattered by the end of the end
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You saw loads in one day! Florence looks great, and Bologna seems to have been a perfect base. I’m excited to follow along to the Dolomites 🙂
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We did the right thing with Bologna, its so well connected to other places and has lots to see in itself
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I think I would have needed an afternoon nap if I’d had a beer that early!
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🤣🤣
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Thank you for sharing. This is beautiful.
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